By 
Looking at the massive snowstorm off the East Coast, my previous trip to Alaska immediately came to mind. It was there that I expected to see constant snowfall with no escape from the cold. Surprisingly, even in early June alongside icy landscapes, there were plenty of sunny days that reached sixty degrees.
America’s 50th state, admitted only in 1959, Alaska is full of wildlife, rugged terrain, and an independent spirit. Whatever the temperature, Alaskans still find a way to be nature lovers. The famous Iditarod sled dog race began in 1973 with an Alaskan woman, Susan Butcher, the best-known competitor, who won four times. More than twice the size of Texas, its population is less than 1 million. From the state’s largest city, Anchorage, with around 300,000 people, the population drops rapidly to around 30,000 in Fairbanks and the state capital, Juneau.
Alaska has a colorful history. In the 1800s, a large and colorful influx of fortune hunters swarmed the state during the gold rush. A different kind of “gold rush” was repeated in the 1960s with the discovery of oil in Prudhoe Bay. Alaska still has a pioneer flavor of the Old West.
With its rugged terrain, many areas can only be reached by air or sea. If you plan to drive to the capital in Juneau, you’ll soon find that you may have to take the ferry, as there are no direct roads from points like Anchorage. With a limited road system and vast distances to cover, many Alaskans choose to fly their own planes. Having flown small planes alone under clear African skies, he wasn’t quite sure how they would fare in a sudden Alaskan blizzard.
Planning to see as much of Alaska as possible, I ruled out driving or flying and waiting for weather delays. Although I generally prefer river cruises on small boats, I chose an ocean cruise through Alaska’s heavily traveled Inside Passage. That solved the problems of navigating in challenging weather and trying to access remote regions. This route provided daily stops and is known for its calm sea. I decided to balance the week’s cruise with an active first week in the national parks, as there were so many options, from hiking to canoeing, rafting, kayaking and fishing.
Flying from the US East Coast to Seattle, my final destination was Fairbanks. I was pleasantly surprised upon arrival to find bright sunshine and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. One of the first things I noticed was the long daylight hours. Around 4 or 5 in the morning, I raised the blackout blind in my hotel room to find the sunlight as bright as a Miami Beach day. At that early hour, I made my way to what I assumed would be an empty hotel lobby. To my surprise, it was already full of fellow travelers having breakfast. After an early start, I got my first taste of Alaskan wildlife as seen from a stern drive boat. Caribou with velvety antlers like chandeliers grazed on the riverbank.
The rest of the week, it was Denali National Park and a view of Mount McKinley. Again I was struck by the long sequence of daylight. I was determined to photograph the sunset behind “the Mountain”. The only problem? Even then, it still wasn’t a true sunset, so I only have a twilight photograph. A local add-on I recommend is a day trip to the small town of Talkeetna. With only a few hundred residents, it’s about a short 10-mile drive from Denali. Its local attractions included the fiddlehead fern that appears on Talkeetna menus which we diligently sampled. Plus, it provided additional opportunities for biking, hiking, fishing, or whitewater rafting.
Although roads were scarce, the local railways were a great way to make the next leg of the journey, finally connecting by bus to catch the ship headed for the Inside Passage. Sailing south towards Vancouver, one of the most memorable first stops was Glacier Bay. In the hours of our approach, visibility was almost non-existent. As the fog cleared, I saw small but abundant icebergs pass by. Apparently, having seen the movie Titanic one too many times, I had some concerns, but was soon distracted by the glaciers. They had a blue-green hue and could easily be seen “departing”, partially dissolving into the sea. On this, the coldest part of the trip, I couldn’t resist climbing to the open top deck and jumping into a heated pool. The only other two occupants and I had an animated chat. The bad news was discovering that the only sodden way out was through a very cold open deck. At the time, it seemed like a real milestone.
As we headed south, from a tourist’s perspective, we had the best day in Skagway. Main streets felt like the Old West with colorful stories to boot: a tour of a local cemetery revealed a cast of 19th-century characters, including some who rested there after taking part in local gunfights. However, it was impossible to know who the real villains were. A very special remainder of the visit to Skagway was the capture of the White Pass. Suspended over a deep gorge, this famous railway connects Skagway to Whitehorse and Canada’s Yukon (so remember your passport!)
Sailing once again provided the opportunity for multiple whale sightings. Having slept with one eye open as we made our way through scattered icebergs, I left that view behind as the ship reached the climes south of Juneau. There was no gold-domed state house in sight. The biggest draw was the nearby Mendenhall Glacier, accessible for the first time by car or bus. Juneau itself is also a hub for day and extended trips to destinations like Sitka, which can only be reached by boat.
The last stop before Vancouver, but very intriguing, was Ketchikan. Although totem poles can be seen throughout southern Alaska, Ketchikan has had some of the larger ones relocated to local parks with tours explaining their history and significance. Not to be limited to just one draw, Ketchikan is also the self-styled “Salmon Capital of the World.” Before leaving Alaska, hardy travelers still looking to spot wildlife can hike through the nearby Tongas National Forest.
Surprises I found in Alaska:
• The enormous size of the flowers: The reason? The long hours of daylight in summer create additional hours of growth.
• Temperature: Although typical Alaskan photos show glaciers/snow-capped mountains, it wasn’t actually much colder than a summer trip to Maine.
• The shortage of roads: How could there be such limited access to the capital!
• The length of sunny days: Instead of a dim twilight in the middle of the night, the sunlight rivaled an afternoon at the beach.
Alaska offers the opportunity to find adventure while sea kayaking, canoeing, sailing Class III/IV whitewater or flying over glaciers in small planes. For a quieter option, you can see wildlife ranging from humpback whales to bald eagles, sea lions, grizzly bears, wolves, foxes, and the abundant caribou.
The only drawback is that the weather limits tourist travel largely to the three summer months. On the plus side, accommodation is moderately priced and the local residents are very welcoming despite the rush of incoming travellers. Alaska will provide you with a contrasting view of the “lower 48”, so make your plans now and start packing!