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It is not uncommon to go out at night to a bar or restaurant in Chiang Mai and hear the sound of an elephant’s trumpet. However, it hardly seems like a typical day in the life of an ordinary elephant. Unfortunately for some, however, it has become that. Though numbers have dropped dramatically in recent years, a handful of street mahouts still herd these jungle creatures into traffic on a nightly pub crawl begging for food. They walk around with bags of peanuts, mainly in congested tourist areas; The bags are then sold and the peanuts are fed to the elephants. Many people also make a financial contribution to take a photo with them while they drink a cocktail. You have to admit it’s a novelty and hardly something most Westerners experience in their hometowns.
Elephants have long been an integral part of Thai society and culture for hundreds of years. They were often used in battle as transportation for kings and other royal army officers. At one point, the elephant population in Thailand was around 100,000, compared to 4,000 today. The elephants were often captured and used for logging and then after their ban in the late 1980s, many entered the tourism industry performing in various shows, trekking camps, along with street begging and sometimes often mistreated.
One person who has tried quite successfully to end the abuse of elephants and return them to a more natural environment is a woman named “Lek”. It’s hard to imagine at first glance that her petite body is capable of encapsulating her larger-than-life spirit.
I first read about Lek when I was researching elephant camps and treks for a friend’s website. I hadn’t given much thought to the ethical considerations of various package tours until I came across an article describing this woman, who had been named Time magazine’s “Asian Hero of the Year 2005.” The more I read about her work with elephants and the Elephant Nature Park she set up not far from the city of Chiang Mai, I couldn’t help but be persuaded to stop recommending any other place in the Kingdom.
There is plenty of information for those interested in riding elephants and every tourist office has loads of brochures to choose from. I, on the other hand, set out to learn more about his alternative. I drove out of town early one morning for about an hour and made my way to the entrance of the Elephant Nature Park. She had been waiting for me, and when we arrived, a woman standing near the outdoor kitchen greeted me and invited me to come over. She was Lek and she was busy helping prepare one of the daily meals for over 60 full-time employees and various volunteers.
Upstairs, day visitors and guides gathered, drinking complimentary coffee and tea in a large Thai-style wooden building. The grounds, although well managed, maintain the natural beauty of a jungle retreat with plenty of open space surrounded by mountains. I took a seat near a tree and soaked up the stunning surroundings.
Approximately 30 minutes later, Lek moved for me to follow her and we headed towards a group of elephants. There was no conversation. I stood there and watched as she petted and played with a 4-month-old baby elephant for over 30 minutes. She later told me that this was part of her daily routine.
Unlike typical elephant camps, there are no elephant rides at Elephant Nature Park and no organized shows. However, there is definitely no shortage of entertainment simply by observing their behavior, which is often quite playful during their daily time on the river. Park visitors are encouraged to participate in bathing the creatures while adhering to certain safety guidelines.
All of the elephants that Lek purchased in his rescue efforts suffered some form of physical or mental abuse. Outside the restaurant, on the wall, photographs are displayed with a brief biography of each one. The camp is funded through private donations, including fees paid by volunteers.
In the afternoon, once he had time to rest from his daily activities with the elephants, Lek and I sat in a tree and he told me more about the mahouts. His goal is definitely to get the elephants off the streets, but he also sympathizes with their trainers. She feels that they should be given a viable alternative that still allows them to make a living. All the mahouts in her camp receive lodging, meals, and a monthly salary. She helps obtain legal documents for those who arrive undocumented. Her tone lacked judgment on mahouts, but rather a greater need for education and understanding. Speaking in a soft but determined voice, she expressed the wish that her compatriot would take more interest in the plight of these endangered creatures.
Meanwhile, the elephants grazed freely in the surrounding pastures with their mahouts crouching quietly nearby, some alone and others in small groups. From time to time during our conversation, Lek would turn to glance at them briefly, like a mother might as she watches her children play in a park. The link between Lek and his staff is as obvious as it is with the elephants. There is a mutual respect that lingers in the air and emanates a common love they both feel for the sanctuary they now call home.
Volunteers can sign up for a program, stay in the park overnight or up to four weeks, and participate in daily life with the mammals, including bathing them and working alongside the mahouts. To ease the stress of the elephants and maintain a safe environment, only a small number of tourists are allowed to inhabit the park each day.
Future plans include purchasing more land to allow more elephants and trainers to be a part of this conservation project. Elephant Nature Park offers a unique alternative for street mahouts and tourists alike. They do not allow unscheduled visits, but there is a separate office in Chiang Mai city with detailed information on organizing visits.